Sewing to Fit Yourself
/As one season comes to an end and another begins, it's the perfect time to think about Sewing for Yourself Again. There may still be some warm weather ahead of us, still time to make a fresh, cool top no longer available in retail but certainly available to those of us who sew! Or maybe you're planning a trip and need a travel wardrobe. As fall approaches, I start thinking of what I'm going to be sewing to wear when the weather cools down.
In my last article, Sewing Yourself Smarter, I mentioned several reasons to sew for yourself. One of the most important reasons to sew for yourself is to gain good fitting garments - garments that fit only you, that are carefully and thoughtfully adjusted to your personal preference and your own unique figure. Custom clothing, made for you, by you! Who hasn't thought longingly of having clothes that are unique and FIT! Sewing for yourself gives you that opportunity and so much more.
This is a subject near and dear to me to me. I'm a short person, not necessarily petite, so I've always had to make pattern adjustments. But just like everyone else, as the years passed, my figure changed and presented additional challenges that were new and not necessarily welcome! Yes, I'm talking about fitting challenges and making all those new lovely patterns FIT me. I feel strongly about good fit of garments, and that even minimal adjustments can and do make a difference. I became a certified Palmer/Pletsch Fit Instructor to better understand my own fit challenges and be able to help others to understand theirs. So let's talk about good fit - what is it?
Good Fit
Some things to consider in a fitted style garment (like a blouse, top, dress or simple jacket):
Shoulder seams are at the center of the shoulder, not hanging forward or backward.
The armhole seamline is located where the arm pivots (you know, that little bone at the top of your shoulder).
If the armhole gaps in front, it means your bust is fuller than the pattern and needs an adjustment. It it gaps in the back, it means you have a rounded back and needs an adjustment.
The center front and center back of the garment or pattern line up with your center front/center back.
At the fullest part of your upper arm there should be a minimum of 1-1/2 inch ease - you should be able to move your arms without the sleeve feeling tight.
The sleeve should hang smoothly, without any pull marks or drag lines.
The sleeve hem should be just below the wrist bone.
The elbow ease or dart should be at your elbow.
Bust darts should point to the bust (not above or below) and end approximately 1" from the bust point (the mid-point of the bust).
There should be a little bit of ease at the waist for comfortably raising arms.
The garment should hang perpendicular to the floor at the center front and center back (not twist around, pull up, or droop).
Seams should hang straight, not pucker or twist.
Hems should be straight and even to the floor all the way around the garment.
Good fit is available for everyone and all it takes is time and the understanding of how your body shape with the patterns you've chosen. Vogue Patterns for example, have a designated symbol on the pattern that shows which of the four basic body shapes the pattern would flatter. In addition. Vogue, Butterick, McCalls and Simplicity patterns all offer a line of patterns called Custom Fit, which provides garment pieces in different bust cup sizes for easier fitting.
Why spend time adjusting patterns?
Taking the time to adjust patterns to fit yourself is time well-invested in your garments and the way you look and feel while wearing an "original" made by you, for you! Simple adjustments such as lengthening or shortening the hems, moving the bust point to a more flattering position, taking in or letting out a side seam, or perhaps adding a little bit of a curve at the side seam for shaping, all add up to a better fit for your individual figure. Learning how to tissue fit the pattern is a great way to check out the fit of a pattern before cutting out your fabric. This is a preview, an opportunity to fine-tune the fit of the garment. Tissue fitting can be accomplished on your own, but is easier if done with a "fit-buddy" who can help you reach and see the hard-to-fit-on-your-won parts. Check out my class Sewing for Yourself Again for some good tips.
Spend time developing the fit of patterns that can be used as the basis of your wardrobe. They become the blank canvas for adding details that make them unique. Start sewing to fit yourself!