Sewing Yourself Smarter

If you’ve been away from sewing for yourself because you couldn’t get your patterns to fit satisfactorily, or if you’ve found another type of sewing to satisfy your need to stitch, reconsider sewing for yourself again. There are many reasons to sew for yourself:

• You can have any garment you want, anytime

• You can choose just the right color and fabric you want

• You don’t have to leave home to shop for fabrics, patterns, notions; fabrics are available online, 24 hours a day, to view, request samples, and order

• You can make the garment to fit you, according to your personal preference

• Many commercial patterns have patterns pieces sized for bust cups sized A-D making pattern adjustments easier than ever

• Your garment will be unique, not found in any store

• Classes are available online from companies such as Blu-Print.

Sewing makes you smarter. It’s been scientifically proven! Sewing is critical thinking, or problem solving. You visualize, imagine, build, utilize technology, measure, use tools, employ fine-motor skills, and produce a tangible object. It requires your full attention and focus. In the process, you lose track of time, become so immersed in what you’re doing, you’re in “the zone”. The results of this are reflected in the outcome of your well-done project and the satisfaction that comes from making something.

Sewing provides the opportunity to have anything you can imagine and are willing to spend the time making. It allows the sewer to create garments that are truly unique and one of a kind. You can have any garment, whenever you want, and not be tied to seasonal shopping. If it’s still 90 degrees outside, and the only clothes available in the store are pre-fall flannels and woolens, you can still stitch a cotton top in any color you want, in any style you want. You can make garments that work together to create lots of outfits and not have to worry about what top will go with what pants. You can sew more garments to work with other pieces already in your closet. Or, you can choose to sew only the garments that are hard to fit in ready-to-wear. You can repair your well-loved garments using techniques such as hemming, replacing a button or a zipper this is both cost effective and satisfying.  

In this instantaneous world of one-click shopping, we can order fabric, patterns, notions, thread, needles and a multitude of items that are not available in chain stores. We can research online, looking for exactly what we want, and have it delivered to our door. Many online fabric stores will send samples of fabric to look at before placing an order, giving you the chance to touch and feel the fabric before making up your mind if it’s “the one”.

Classes for all levels of sewing are available online. You can review the classes over and over or go to any part of the class to review one particular technique.  Join me at my website: sharon@sharonczachor.com to check out my on-line Blu-Print class called Sewing for Yourself Again. This class is designed to welcome sewers back to sewing garments for themselves. My class provides lots of helpful information about taking measurements to determine your real size and shows how to make simple adjustments for better, more personalized fit. Sewing techniques for a professional finish of the garments are included along with other tips on choosing the correct interfacing, needles and thread.  Class materials include a resource list of where to buy the fabric and notions I’ve used in class. I’ll also be posting some new versions of the garments in this class on my website.

Sew yourself smarter and sew for yourself again!

Fast and Easy Last Minute Gifts

Fast and Easy Last Minute Gifts

A hand-made gift is always a welcome answer of what to bring the hostess when visiting during the holidays, or for anyone who entertains. Whether you sew or not, no matter what your sewing skill level, this is a gift that’s easy to make and requires no sewing! A table runner, matching or contrasting napkins, and even napkin rings can be quickly put together using a fusible web called Stitch Witchery by Dritz. The trick to making any of these gifts fabulous is to use fun fabrics, accurate and smooth cutting, and an iron.

Table Runner, Napkin and Napkin Ring

I purchased my cotton fabric from JoAnn Fabrics and used 3 yards of 45” wide fabric to make the table runner, 6 napkins, and 6 matching napkin rings, with a little left over. The leftover fabric could  be used to make additional napkin rings, or use another fabric to coordinate with another set of napkins. Add some trim to the table runner, think about using a wide grosgrain ribbon for the napkin rings that matches a color in the fabric - the possibilities are endless.

Here’s what you need:

·        Table Runner: 18” wide x 60” long (1”hems)

·        Napkins: 20” x 20” (a nice dinner sized-napkin, ¼” hems)

·        Napkin Rings: 3-1/2” x 6” fabric strips, folded in half (finished size 1-1/4” wide)

·        Stitch Witchery 5/8” wide: Regular for the table runner, Super Weight for the napkin rings, and ¼ wide for the napkins

·        Plastic see-thru Grid Ruler 2” wide x 18” long

·        Sharp Scissors, Pinking Shears, or Rotary Cutter with cutting mat

·        Iron with good steam capability

Steps:

1.      Cut out the table runner, using the length of the fabric, then cut the napkins, and last the napkin rings. If the cotton ravels easily, use pinking shears (if you have them), otherwise trim all the loose threads away.  

2.      Press under 1” along the long sides of the table runner, using the graph ruler to accurately measure.

3.      Place the fusible web underneath the upper raw edge.

4.      With the iron held just above the fabric, give it a shot of steam, then lower the iron in place. Do not move it back and forth, it will disturb the fusible web and interfere with it adhering. Continue this along the length of the folded hem.

5.      Turn down the shorter edges of the table runner 1” and repeat steps 2-4. Give the table runner a final press. You’re finished! If you want to add additional trim, apply to the front, again using the fusible web.

6.      Fold ¼” hems for the napkins, using the above steps. The napkins have a little bit of body on the edges where the fusible is applied, which makes them look crisp, but not stiff.

7.      Fold the strips for the napkin rings in half and press. Turn under ¼” hems on each long raw edge. Place two strips of the super weight fusible web inside, one against the fold and the other up against the upper folded hem.  Carefully re-fold the strip, steam and press. 

8.      Place the ends of the strip together, sliding in a piece of the super weight fusible web in  between. Using ONLY the tip of the iron, press. You may have to do this from both sides of the napkin ring. Do not press the rings flat, the creases will not come out!  You’re finished!

9.      For a professional looking finish, keep the edges straight, use good pressing (lifting and lowering the iron) so all the hems are even and flat, and trim away any little fibers that might not have been caught in the fusing.

Happy last-minute-gift-making for the holidays! 

Fall Sewing for Yourself

Fall has officially arrived, although we've been seeing fall garments in the stores for a while now. A few days of cooler (colder!)weather brings to mind thoughts of just exactly what are we going to wear? It can be chilly or cold in the early morning when many of us are leaving for work, walking the dog (or ourselves), or standing at the bus stop to see the kids off to school. By mid-day it can be agreeably pleasant, and then later in the afternoon, back to chilly. Making the transition from morning to evening is an exercise in layering!

Layering

What garments in the layer equation are you missing from your wardrobe? Do you need something new, current, and fun? What are the pieces you like best to sew for yourself? What are the garments you enjoy investing your time, talent, and resources into making uniquely yours? A few popular suggestions from current trends are:

• an outer jacket (embroidere?), a cardigan (sweater knits for a longer-length boyfriend cardigan), maybe a sleeveless best (faux Sherpa) or a poncho/cape;
• cardigan (open front/cascading) and a simple shell;
• a tee-shirt or blouse;
• maybe a scarf or shawl over it all for more color and texture.

The possibilities are endless! And that can become the issue: what to sew? And, which comes first, the fabric or the idea? Oftne the inspiration for the next garment to sew will come from something we need (NOW) or maybe something we saw but immediately thought "I could sew that"! Browsing through the pattern catalogs or looking through our personal stash of adjusted-just-for-me patterns can inspire us to capture just the right look for what we want to wear.

Check out a few of the many online resources for fabric browsing and inspiration, such as:

www.emmaonesock.com

www.moodfabricsc.com

www.britexfabrics.com

If you'd like to belong to as sewing group, the American Sewing Guild has chapters everywhere!  A group is likely to be found in your nearby neighborhood, ready to welcome you back to sewing. In addition to monthly meetings, they also have a national conference offering classes from nationally recognized sewing instructors. To find a chapter near you, go to: www.asg.org and sign up to be a member.  You can try a meeting to to find just the right group. The membership is reasonable and offers many opportunities for workshops, an annual fashion show, and sewing retreats, plus chapter newsletters and a quarterly newsletter from the national organization.

Check out my special offers on my Craftsy class, Sewing for Yourself Again and join in on the fun!

Sewing to Fit Yourself

As one season comes to an end and another begins, it's the perfect time to think about Sewing for Yourself Again. There may still be some warm weather ahead of us, still time to make a fresh, cool top no longer available in retail but certainly available to those of us who sew! Or maybe you're planning a trip and need a travel wardrobe. As fall approaches, I start thinking of what I'm going to be sewing to wear when the weather cools down.

In my last article, Sewing Yourself Smarter, I mentioned several reasons to sew for yourself. One of the most important reasons to sew for yourself is to gain good fitting garments - garments that fit only you, that are carefully and thoughtfully adjusted to your personal preference and your own unique figure. Custom clothing, made for you, by you! Who hasn't thought longingly of having clothes that are unique and FIT! Sewing for yourself gives you that opportunity and so much more.

This is a subject near and dear to me to me. I'm a short person, not necessarily petite, so I've always had to make pattern adjustments. But just like everyone else, as the years passed, my figure changed and presented additional challenges that were new and not necessarily welcome! Yes, I'm talking about fitting challenges and making all those new lovely patterns FIT me. I feel strongly about good fit of garments, and that even minimal adjustments can and do make a difference. I became a certified Palmer/Pletsch Fit Instructor to better understand my own fit challenges and be able to help others to understand theirs. So let's talk about good fit - what is it?

Good Fit

Some things to consider in a fitted style garment (like a blouse, top, dress or simple jacket):

• Shoulder seams are at the center of the shoulder, not hanging forward or backward.

• The armhole seamline is located where the arm pivots (you know, that little bone at the top of your shoulder).

• If the armhole gaps in front, it means your bust is fuller than the pattern and needs an adjustment. It it gaps in the back, it means you have a rounded back and needs an adjustment.

• The center front and center back of the garment or pattern line up with your center front/center back.

• At the fullest part of your upper arm there should be a minimum of 1-1/2 inch ease - you should be able to move your arms without the sleeve feeling tight.

• The sleeve should hang smoothly, without any pull marks or drag lines.

• The sleeve hem should be just below the wrist bone.

• The elbow ease or dart should be at your elbow.

• Bust darts should point to the bust (not above or below) and end approximately 1" from the bust point (the mid-point of the bust).

• There should be a little bit of ease at the waist for comfortably raising arms.

• The garment should hang perpendicular to the floor at the center front and center back (not twist around, pull up, or droop).

• Seams should hang straight, not pucker or twist.

• Hems should be straight and even to the floor all the way around the garment.

Good fit is available for everyone and all it takes is time and the understanding of how your body shape with the patterns you've chosen. Vogue Patterns for example, have a designated symbol on the pattern that shows which of the four basic body shapes the pattern would flatter. In addition. Vogue, Butterick, McCalls and Simplicity patterns all offer a line of patterns called Custom Fit, which provides garment pieces in different bust cup sizes  for easier fitting.

Why spend time adjusting patterns?

Taking the time to adjust patterns to fit yourself is time well-invested in your garments and the way you look and feel while wearing an "original" made by you, for you! Simple adjustments such as lengthening or shortening the hems, moving the bust point to a more flattering position, taking in or letting out a side seam, or perhaps adding a little bit of a curve at the side seam for shaping, all add up to a better fit for your individual figure. Learning how to tissue fit the pattern is a great way to check out the fit of a pattern before cutting out your fabric. This is a preview, an opportunity to fine-tune the fit of the garment. Tissue fitting can be accomplished on your own, but is easier if done with a "fit-buddy" who can help you reach and see the hard-to-fit-on-your-won parts. Check out my class Sewing for Yourself Again for some good tips.

Spend time developing the fit of patterns that can be used as the basis of your wardrobe. They become the blank canvas for adding details that make them unique.  Start sewing to fit yourself!

Sewing Yourself Smarter

Recently I wrote an article for a northwest suburban newspaper on how sewing makes you smarter. Read on, and let me know what you think.

Sewing Yourself Smarter

If you’ve been away from sewing for yourself because you couldn’t get your patterns to fit satisfactorily, or if you’ve found another type of sewing to satisfy your need to stitch, reconsider sewing for yourself again. There are many reasons to sew for yourself:

·        You can have any garment you want, anytime

·        You can choose just the right color and fabric you want

·        You don’t have to leave home to shop for fabrics, patterns, notions; fabrics are available online, 24 hours a day, to view, request samples, and order

·        You can make the garment to fit you, according to your personal preference

·        Many commercial patterns have patterns pieces sized for bust cups sized A-D making pattern adjustments easier than ever

·        Your garment will be unique, not found in any store

·        Classes are available online from companies such as Craftsy.

Sewing makes you smarter. It’s been scientifically proven! Sewing is critical thinking, or problem solving. You visualize, imagine, build, utilize technology, measure, use tools, employ fine-motor skills, and produce a tangible object. It requires your full attention and focus. In the process, you lose track of time, become so immersed in what you’re doing, you’re in “the zone”. The results of this are reflected in the outcome of your well-done project and the satisfaction that comes from making something.

Sewing provides the opportunity to have anything you can imagine and are willing to spend the time making. It allows the sewer to create garments that are truly unique and one of a kind. You can have any garment, whenever you want, and not be tied to seasonal shopping. If it’s still 90 degrees outside, and the only clothes available in the store are pre-fall flannels and woolens, you can still stitch a cotton top in any color you want, in any style you want. You can make garments that work together to create lots of outfits and not have to worry about what top will go with what pants. You can sew more garments to work with other pieces already in your closet. Or, you can choose to sew only the garments that are hard to fit in ready-to-wear. You can repair your well-loved garments using techniques such as hemming, replacing a button or a zipper this is both cost effective and satisfying.  

In this instantaneous world of one-click shopping, we can order fabric, patterns, notions, thread, needles and a multitude of items that are not available in chain stores. We can research online, looking for exactly what we want, and have it delivered to our door. Many online fabric stores will send samples of fabric to look at before placing an order, giving you the chance to touch and feel the fabric before making up your mind if it’s “the one”.

Classes for all levels of sewing are available online. You can review the classes over and over or go to any part of the class to review one particular technique.  Join me at my website: sharonczachor.com  to check out my special-offer on-line Craftsy class called Sewing for Yourself Again. This class is designed to welcome sewers back to sewing garments for themselves. My class provides lots of helpful information about taking measurements to determine your real size and shows how to make simple adjustments for better, more personalized fit. Sewing techniques for a professional finish of the garments are included along with other tips on choosing the correct interfacing, needles and thread.  Class materials include a resource list of where to buy the fabric and notions I’ve used in class.

Sew yourself smarter and sew for yourself again!

ITAA Conference Recap

ITAA Conference Vancouver November, 2016

What an exciting opportunity to present a workshop on Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics at the conference! Fairchild Books, a division of Bloomsbury Publishing sponsored the workshop. Below is a photo of me with Amanda Breccia, Acquisitions Editor, with the giant poster they prepared of my book cover.

Sharing the teaching methods found in my book, presenting ideas of the various ways the material can be incorporated into current curriculum, demonstrating sample-making techniques that produce amazing results on a standard sewing machine, were a few of the subjects of the workshop. Also included for consideration is the use of the half-scale form for design and pattern development using more complex sewing techniques. A discussion of  students  graduating, preparing their own lines and garments supports the need for students to have a vast array of  sewing skills, utilizing the resources they have at hand.  

I had the pleasure of meeting sewing icon and author Claire Shaeffer, and discussing with her various couture techniques that can be applied to sewing with knits. She is such a well of knowledge and inspiration, and we had a few minutes to talk about her vast collection of Chanel, a personal favorite designer of mine, and the source of her life-long research.

It was amazing to meet professors, teachers and instructors of multiple-level classes and talk sewing!

Craftsy Black Friday Sale Through 11/28!

Craftsy Class Update

ALL Craftsy Classes are on Sale for $17.99 or less through November 28th the lowest price of the season just in time for Black Friday Weekend! Access the savings by clicking here.

My class, Sew for Yourself: Fit and Fashion Essentials is a perfect gift for anyone returning to sewing, or beginning to sew. It covers many of the techniques to get started on a flattering and well-fit garment. In addition to the pattern used for the class, it also includes suggestions on how to find the other patterns that include fitting for different sized busts, making it easier than ever to fine-tune the fit.  Also check out my Facebook page, and Instagram for more ideas on how to personalize your garments.

Gift the sewing class, and get ready to receive…lots of compliments on your newly created garments!

ITAA Conference - November 8-11

I am excited to announce that I will be presenting a teaching workshop based on my book Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics. The 3 hour workshop will cover sewing techniques as related to the use of knit and stretch and woven fabrics.  Half-scale patterns will be used to demonstrate sample making for techniques, construction methods, various neckline, hemline and sleeve treatments. I will provide an overview of the book, Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics, demonstrate core techniques and share the integrated online resources that are available.  I also will demonstrate how to access the STUDIO online resources from the Fairchild Books Website (Bloomsbury Fashion Central), how to download the patterns and use the resources available to students and instructors.  A sample resource workbook will be compiled for the continued use of the instructor.

Workshop will be 11/8 from 1-4pm

Contact Amanda Breccia (Amanda.Breccia@bloomsbury.com) for more details.

Summer 2016

Exciting News!  I recently joined the team at Craftsy and finished up my first class: Sew for Yourself, Fit and Fashion Essentials. launching on September 12th!  This class is perfect for returning sewers and new sewers as well.  Use the link below to sign up to win the class for free!

http://www.craftsy.com/ext/SharonCzachor_Giveaway

Spring 2016

As you may know, I am an instructor at Harper College in the Fashion Studies program.  Fashion design students in my classes study the construction of the Little Black Dress (LBD) and French-style jacket, made famous by Chanel.  Just this past week I spoke at an event at which Harper College students were invited to display their LBD’s and French-style jackets.  I had the pleasure of introducing the over 500 guests to the design process the students undergo in creating their garments.  My presentation included a brief history of these iconic garments as well opening the event for questions and answers.  To conclude the event, the guests voted for their favorite garments, and the students with the highest number of votes received scholarship awards.  It was an honor to speak at this event and a perfect way to begin a series of events, workshops and conferences I will be attending this year.

The calendar is filling up quickly.  Below is a list of upcoming events, conferences and workshops.  For more details on each event, view my events page:

I am very excited about these upcoming events.  If you have any questions about the events or would like to attend please contact me.